Going to the Dogs

We have departed the Dordogne Region, where there was so much to see and appreciate that we find ourselves hoping to return someday. But now, we have traveled to the Loire Valley, an area known for its chateaux and wineries. Not unlike our own Finger Lakes Winery Region, the landscape here is adorned with neat rows of grapevines, fields freshly planted with corn and some with already ripening grain. The roses are blooming in the Loire Valley…not to mention the iris, geraniums, pansies and fragrant honeysuckle.

The chateaux here are castles built by kings, not for purposes of fortification, but for sheer pleasure. In our time here, we visited three of them: Chambord, commissioned by King Francois I, who, at age 20, became king and dreamed of building the most impressive castle anywhere. It is huge, with elaborate adornment, including a central spiral (double helix) staircase. Francois only spent 72 days at his dream house…its construction actually went on long after he died.

We also visited Cheverny, the most elaborately furnished of the chateaux, and a castle where fox hunting – on horseback with hunting dogs – it still practiced. We planned our time to be at Cheverny for the feeding of the dogs—71 of them (a mixed breed that is half English bloodhound and half French pointrou). The 5:00 feeding is a spectacle that draws a crowd. Contained within a kennel with a cement floor, brick-wall and wrought iron railing, the hounds relax, play, rumble and occasionally howl…until their trainer enters, when the howling commences in earnest. He releases them to a rooftop caged-in area while he prepares the "dining hall" below.

Step 1: ½ hour before feeding time, scoop buckets-full of water out of the watering trough and throw them onto the kennel floor, washing away all traces of dog hair and excrement.

Step 2: Bring wheelbarrow full of meat into the kennel and dump the pile of whole raw chicken, and other various bird parts onto the kennel floor and spread it evenly within the trough that runs from one end of the kennel to the other.

Step 3: Open the bag of kibble. Drizzle the contents of the bag over the raw birds until the bag is empty.

Step 4: Stand at the doorway of the kennel, bullwhip in hand, for 15 minutes, while the dogs watch and wait from their rooftop vantage point.

Watching the various waiting styles is hilarious. Some of them sit with eyes fastened on the food—staring intently. Others lie down, seemingly oblivious to the meal waiting below, apparently confident that they will be fed, in due time. Still others pace and roam restlessly, occasionally howling about it.

Step 5: When the clock tower bell rings 5:00 p.m., walk to the gate that leads to the rooftop and open it to the hounds, now raising a ruckus.

Step 6: Stand between the hounds and their food with the bullwhip, waving it in front of the dogs, so they will ‘’toe the invisible line." Gradually step backwards until you are on the other side of the food. When you are ready, lift the whip and step out of the way. The pack will charge the food, jumping on and among one another in an all-out feeding frenzy. Some will grab whole birds; there will be tugs-of-war, and some, aware that they don’t stand a chance of nabbing any meat, will concentrate on consuming as much kibble as they can. When it’s over, there won’t be a speck of meat or kibble on the kennel floor and the dogs will finish the meal by licking the juices that have dribbled onto the backs of their kennel-mates.

What a riot. This eating regimen obviously fits with the larger scheme of training the dogs to hunt. It would be fascinating to see them in action. Going to the dogs was an unexpected and much enjoyed experience in the Loire Valley.

Clos-Luce, the third Chateau that we visited, was another highlight, worthy of its own blog entry, which will follow this one, as time and internet access allow.

Blessings to all,

Cheryl